8 km/h onshore making it messy, 2.1m @ 12s, but tide is wrong for this spot — improves in 15 min.
Swell
Wind
Wind 8 km/h SW Swell SW— Spot faces WSW
Wind makes or breaks it, bru. Offshore (blowing land to sea) grooms the faces clean and glassy — lukka. Onshore chops it all into mush. Under about 10 km/h it hardly matters — basically glass.Wind↓8 km/h SWOnshore
Size @ period, plus where it's from. Period is the secret, boet: 12s+ is proper groundswell — organised lines with real punch. Under 10s is local windswell that folds quick. Same size, longer period = way more klap.Swell↓2.1m @ 12s SW≈ 5ft face
Size and period smashed into one number — the real 'is it worth it?' gauge, ekse.< 40 kJ basically flat40–100 small100–180 fun180–450 solid — punchy450+ heavy — vy with respectLong period klaps way harder than the same size at short period. See 'Swell shadow'? A headland or bay is blocking part of the swell — the number here is what actually reaches the spot, the offshore one is what's out at sea.Energy308 kJSolid
2nd Swell↓1m @ 16s SW
Pushing in or draining out, and when it turns. Most banks have a favourite tide — right tide and the spot comes alive, wrong tide and it goes fat or dumpy. Time your session, china.TideHigh / Rising — High in 15 min
Water14°C · 4/3 + boots
UV IndexLow — just a touch of sunscreen.
Cold water (14°C) — 4/3 + boots
Tide turning in ~15 min — conditions will shift
Scope it 30+ min — read the sets, rips & entry Don't paddle out solo.
Give a man a surfboard, distract him for a day. Teach a man to surf, and he'll never make it to work again.
